A Nigerian Dish, Pieced Together From Our Bronx Pantry

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A Nigerian Dish, Pieced Together From Our Bronx Pantry
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'The kitchen was perhaps the only place where my mom could make my dad love her.'

In 1973, my grandfather decided to move back to Nigeria, first settling in Lagos and then moving six hours east to his ancestral village, Ibusa, where he planned to build a Pan African Center on a huge parcel of land he’d bought. My father, also named Patrick Onwuachi, then twelve years old, went back with him. He grew up partly in the diaspora and partly in the motherland.

My mom has roots that wrap around America. My father, on the other hand, is from a no-man’s-land, caught between being Nigerian and Nigerian American. The kitchen was perhaps the only place where my mom could make my dad love her. My mother, for whom experimenting in the kitchen was as natural as walking, learned to re ne her own jambalaya recipe until it resembled more closely its ancestral jollof rice. She added peanut and ginger powder to her spice rubs, marrying the ribs of her grandfather with the

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