Hot slaw forever.
meaning salad). I bring this up defensively; there’s been some recent disagreement around these parts about the true nature of slaw.The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook
, whose authors, Matt and Ted Lee, came across the dish at the Greyhound Tavern, in Fort Mitchell, Kentucky. The “hot” here denotes how it’s served: warm . And this is what caused the consternation.
Anyway, history won’t let us rename it—“hot slaw” has been in the lexicon for centuries. A recipe in the 1839 cookbookinstructs makers of “warm slaugh” to cook cabbage in butter, vinegar, salt, pepper, and unnamed “seasonings” just until it’s heated, then garnish it with hard-boiled egg yolks. A version appeared in the 1915suggesting the mixture—here called “hot slaw”—be cooked for 20 minutes.
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