With his recipe for eggplant and okra caponata, chef kissmybhatt puts a Southern riff on a Sicilian classic
The first time Vishwesh Bhatt ate caponata, it was at Susan Spicer’s New Orleans restaurant Bayona. As a lover of eggplant, Bhatt was so smitten by the Sicilian dish that he decided to put his own version on the menu at Snackbar, the Oxford, Mississippi, restaurant where he has been the executive chef since 2009.
Bhatt, who was 18 when he immigrated with his family to Texas from Gujarat, India, has filled his book with recipes that carry on a lively, nuanced conversation between India and the American South: stewed Gujarati-style black-eyed peas sit next to savory black-eyed pea griddle cakes; garam masala is added to succotash; okra, a staple of Indian cooking that was first brought to this country by enslaved people from West Africa, gets its own chapter.
By the time he started writing the book three years ago, “the idea that I wanted to tell my story had been brewing for awhile,” Bhatt says. As he wrote, he thought about “why some foods are more popular here, and accepted more readily than others, and then you realize actually, that’s not necessarily the case.” Sicilian food, he points out, took awhile to be accepted — “so there’s a process, and slowly, slowly you become accepted and assimilate.
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