Tomato season is fleeting, but pasta is forever.
. Using tomato paste is a common work-around to achieve depth in a fraction of the time, but the extended cooking is simply bumped up the chain—the paste is concentrated before it ever reaches your shelf.
By contrast, no-cook sauces have none of the thickness and body that I want dressing pasta. Without any heat to tighten the juices and strengthen the flavor, a raw sauce is thin and watery , which, to me, sells tomatoes short. So it is my opinion that the best no-cook tomato sauce is…a little bit cooked. Not a lot! Not even a medium amount. Erase any visions of laborious Sunday sauces from your mind. The aim is still speed and maintaining the glory of summer tomatoes—just with an amped up texture and flavor deserving of your best box of pasta.
To make this sauce, you’ll grate a few large tomatoes, breaking the flesh into small pieces and tossing the leftover skin. Those tomato bits need just 10 minutes in a hot pan to transform from liquidy and loose to just tight enough—less time than it takes to boil water for the pasta. Then you’ll add a few power players to turn the whole thing deeply savory: butter, miso, and fish sauce, a magical trifecta of caramelized umami. Don’t be fooled by the sauce’s pale color. Thanks to the funky miso and anchovy-based fish sauce, it’s a dish that packs a flavorful punch. Enough to convince even the biggest don’t-touch-the-tomatoes advocates.
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