For the residents of a small Canadian town, a breeze from the Atlantic Seafood Sauce Company carries the unpleasant smell of water, salt, and nearly 20-year-old fermented fish sauce
On a good day the wind blows the fumes right out to sea, but the residents of St. Mary’s, Newfoundland aren’t always that lucky. When the wind comes from the northeast, it carries the stench of over 100
The fumes leave Lee feeling conflicted, in addition to nauseous. She loves her home, and the St. Mary’s community, but feels let down by the government’s ineffectual management of the problem. To her, it seems like the federal government is blaming the provincial government, and the provincial government is blaming the federal government: “They’re walking away from it,” she says. “We’ll take any help in the world to get it cleaned up, [but] everyone seems to have turned a blind eye.
But the project was in trouble before it fermented its first fish, due in part to the factory’s flawed building plans. Rather than durable cement, the building featured drywall construction. When this drywall came into contact with the excessive moisture evaporating into the air during the fermenting process, mold grew quickly. It was only 11 years before the Canadian Food Inspection agency shuttered the plant, and deemed the product unsafe. Ngo didn’t give up right away.
But for Ngo, their ruling proved too restrictive to run a profitable factory. “We still had one million liters of fish sauce there,” he says. “The value on the market [was] about three million dollars, but they would not let us sell it. And for that reason, we just [left] it there.”
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