Low and slow
Alex Lau
But lost in the whole “cooking veg like meat” conversation is the fact that, well, hot-and-fast isn’t the only way we like to cook our meat. And if low-and-slow cooking makes a succulent, fork-tender mess out of acooked-to-death situation here—though we absolutely love veggies cooked in that way, too. We mean dry roasting that veg with a little olive oil, a good sprinkle of salt, and a sprinkle of chile flakes for good measure—in a 250° degree oven until the exterior gets all shrivel-y and the interior takes on a delicate, custard-like texture. This is less about adding brash browned notes than it is concentrating natural flavors, yielding vegetables that taste distinctly and deliciously of themselves.
Whole farmers' market carrots cooked in this way take on a beautifully concentrated sweetness, and take anywhere between an hour and an hour and a half. A halved head of cauliflower might take up to two and a half hours to become tender, but the result—moist, rich, deeply satisfying—is worth the wait. Thick wedges of winter squash. Whole peeled beets. Peppery radishes.
The timing will change depending on what kind of veg you’re using , and how large your pieces are, but the technique is about as low stakes as it gets—just taste as you go and pull your pan when it tastes delicious. One thing we can promise you: When your oven’s at 250°, there’s no way in hell you’re going to burn anything.
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