Jeremy Fox's Birdie G's in Santa Monica is reviewed by Times critic Bill Addison
The eyes, at first, don’t quite know where to land or dart next on Birdie G’s placemat-size menu. Dishes splinter into 10 categories — “hors d’oeuvres,” “soup and salad,” “blue plates,” “Texas toasts,” “West Coast seafood,” “classic meats from California ranches” and so on — amid call-out boxes for made-to-share platters. Matzo ball soup swivels to chopped salad; noodle kugel, beef stroganoff, warm “country club greens” and kasha cakes with schmaltz and gribenes vie for attention in the melee.
Snacking through these communal starters, one settles into the space, housed in a building that was long ago a train depot and then a celery packing plant.
Caramelized onion-Manischewitz jam slicked over chicken liver mousse toast has the right tart-sweet edge. One more plate to split: the Hangtown Brei, an amalgam of San Francisco’s Hangtown fry and matzo brei. The matzo gently bulks up soft-scrambled eggs cooked in schmaltz and overlaid with grilled pork belly, fried oysters and, for glorious overkill, hot sauce hollandaise. It is the furthest thing from kosher but wholly ecumenical in its appeal.
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