Source a good bird from a good butcher to make this super-succulent centrepiece – you might never cook chicken any other way again
he sawdust on the floor, the not-unpleasant smell of fat, the hooks and flesh against the white tiles: I remember these things about Harbours Butchers on Southdown Road, Harpenden. Also, the glass booth across from the counter where Mrs Harbour sat and took money and dispensed receipts, a scene recreated back home when I forced my younger brother and sister to be customers.
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