Lebanese creatives speak about the realities of living and working in Beirut, one year after the explosion that destroyed life as they knew it.
It’s been exactly 365 days since a massive warehouse explosion at the port of Beirut sent shockwaves through the Lebanese capital, killing more than 200 people, injuring thousands and destroying major building sites.
Yet they are not giving up: Some decided to relocate and keep their businesses alive by venturing into new markets, while others are staying put and trying to work within a new set of parameters, including the ongoing pandemic, political conflicts and a deflated currency that has even made food shopping a luxury.
“The situation has become dire to the point of being normalized — we are too busy trying to survive to think of fighting back,” said Cynthia Merhej, the Lebanese designer behind women’s wear label Renaissance Renaissance and the first Arab woman to be shortlisted for this year’s LVMH Prize. For Nathalie Mroue, cofounder of the sales showroom and consultancy business Maison Pyramide, it was a case of saying “enough is enough.”
She added that film and production agencies, media channels and photographers are slowly migrating to places like Dubai, where financing and infrastructure make it easier to do business. “It’s bound to affect the whole creative chain here.
For Merhej, relocating to Paris was the only solution. “It is impossible to grow a business in a place where you don’t even know if there will be electricity, internet, or a currency tomorrow. It’s extremely difficult to live. I was given a second chance for myself and my business so I took it, even though it has not been easy establishing it elsewhere,” she said.
“We were devastated and for a moment started to lose hope in the future of our country and city. But the energy on the ground the day after the blast, the amount of love and solidarity that we witnessed from the Lebanese people, ignited our flame and passion for our country once more,” recalled Tatiana Fayad, who runs the Vanina label alongside Joanne Hayek.
Designer Yassmin Saleh, who runs the namesake brand she cofounded with her sister Farah, also reworked the company’s production model. Couturiers George Azzi and Assaad Osta, whose studio was devastated as a result of the blast, also made a point to rebuild and keep their atelier going in Beirut to support local artisans, even as they shift their focus to markets like Dubai and Paris. They also plan to open a new headquarters in the French capital.
“We managed to build something so organically, based on respect and the fair and ethical treatment of garment workers, I deeply feel like I’d be turning my back on the values that I built the whole business model on,” said Ritter when asked if he ever considered relocating the company elsewhere.
A collaboration with H&M earlier this year — which marked the first time the retailer worked with an Arab designer — helped give the brand a boost in terms of international exposure.
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