This is what a food critic cooks for Thanksgiving
The holidays are upon us, and Patricia Escárcega and I take a break from restaurant reviews this coming week to make way for the Nov. 21 Food section brimming with Thanksgiving recipes. We savored the leftovers from dishes that Genevieve Ko and Ben Mims tested for weeks; can’t wait for everyone to see — and cook — the brilliance they came up with.
Thanksgiving has always been a friends’ holiday for me. For the last seven years I’ve cooked the big meal with my friends Caline and Numan in Atlanta. We fused together an ever-evolving collage of Lebanese, Pakistani and American Southern classics that made complete sense on their table. I’d argue for lamb instead of turkey; they always wanted turkey and won the fight every time. The chunky, sweet-savory cranberry sauce leaned closer to chutney.
But this year, I’ll be staying in Southern California, celebrating the holiday with my dear friend Denise. We worked together at a vegetarian restaurant in the ’90s. She moved to San Diego nearly a decade ago and now co-runs aAdvertisement This will be my first Thanksgiving dinner with Denise since 2005. She’s agreed to let me destroy her kitchen with a crazy feast.
Dal with pumpkin to start, heavy on the cumin and mustard seeds tempered in ghee. There will be a turkey, unbrined but basted with beer, butter and herbs . Collard greens, cooked with a ham hock if I can find one, and otherwise simmered with bacon and lots of garlic and onion and finished with sherry vinegar and chile flakes. Custardy mac and cheese fromby Edna Lewis and Scott Peacock, one of my enduringly favorite cookbooks. Cranberry sauce with blood orange.
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