Jonathan Anderson described the vibe of his new collection for LoeweOfficial as aristocratic and poetic. Read the full review here.
Backstage at Loewe on Friday morning, Jonathan Anderson talked about being in Japan in a hotel room with automated curtains, and people telling him he has his best ideas and does his best work in the morning. Whether self-opening curtains and a.m. inspiration track with clarity, who cares? Anderson co-opted the former for his lovely, soothing set. As to the latter point, he must have set his alarm at crack-of-dawn for months, because this collection was breathtaking.
Anderson described the vibe as aristocratic and poetic while referencing various techniques that went into its accomplishment. The clothes were rendered with great attention to detail, invocations of the craftwork so integral to his work. In fact, they exquisitely managed a difficult dichotomy, a whole lot going on design-wise yet exquisitely distilled into an essence of elegant serenity.
Anderson seldom gets reference-specific in his backstage sessions; he’d rather talk about headier fashion themes or the wonders of craft. So it’s not surprising that he didn’t mention the collection’s clown quotient. Not any clown, but shades of the ever-chic Pierrot in trapeze tunics; suits with trumpeted peplums; round, ruffled collars and specific plays of black and white.The designer did speak about the “christening” effect of a delicate puffed-sleeved gown.
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