For Margiela's spring collection, designer John Galliano looked to the World War eras to find a message of hope.
“The theme of this collection is one of hope,” John Galliano said in the podcast that accompanied his Maison Margiela show.
Hope through a lens of war. Galliano is a master at historical reinterpretation, something he has not done obviously in a long time. Here he chose a fairly wide 20th-century time frame with a specific focus — the two World Wars. On the fashion side, it provided a platform on which he could continue his focus on real clothes after his protracted foray into more experimental territory.
On the thematic/philosophical side, here was Galliano, one of fashion’s most notorious renegades, making a case for civic duty, patriotism even. In that pursuit, he turned storyteller, crafting a tale not as intricately as those from his Dior/John Galliano brand days back when, but still with daring. He went for character studies — British nurse Edith Cavell, American soldier KT Robbins, whose WWII story of love, loss and reconnection Galliano saw in a documentary.
The period he mined here was known for its sartorial panache. He’s been there before, particularly the Forties. This was different. Beneath the various nurse and military headgear, Galliano acknowledged and took major liberties with tropes of the era, until they were undistinguishable.
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