Sophie Morris and her panel of tasters put recipes from three new vegan cookbooks to the taste test
As with La Manna’s book, even as a non-vegan there’s little I don’t want to cook among Makin’s recipes. There are sushi and lobster rolls, but also the dishes of my childhood such as Lancashire hotpot and Manchester tart. “You probably weren’t expecting a section entitled Meats in your vegan cookbook,” he writes. “But I believe there’s something intensely and irreversibly formative about all those early food memories, no matter how hazy they are.
After trying out his mushroom brisket sandwiches, I’m not sure I need any further sandwich recipes in my life. Like the banana peel bacon, the flavour and texture is right up there with its brisket namesake. The mushrooms are chewy and fibrous and smoky, though obviously not brisket. But who cares when it’s so delicious? It’s also really easy to make. Oyster mushrooms are doused in paprika, cayenne pepper, garlic, onion and stock powder, sugar and salt, then fried.
Sophie Morris’ carrot ‘lox’: looks convincing, tastes less so: ‘It’s delicious but it’s not lox’ said one tester This time the marinade is olive oil, rice vinegar, smoked paprika, black pepper and liquid smoke. It’s a delicious quick pickle, zingy and crunchy. But is it lox? Alaina’s unlikely to serve it to her Jewish family any time soon. “This one I’m less convinced by,” she admits. “It’s delicious but it’s not lox. It’s the texture. Lox is soft and this has some crunch. But it’s a good sandwich.
If Lancashire hotpot or lox aren’t the feelgood flavours for you, there should be something out there. Denai Moore’s Plentiful another brilliant new publication, is full of Moore’s veganised versions of the Jamaican recipes she grew up with, from cheesy ‘beef’ patties to spring veg rundown and brown stew tofu. Even among a growing field of vegan cookbooks, these three feel like genuine game changers in the way they present vegan takes on old favourites without compromising on flavour.
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