Home cooks weren’t shy about celebrating their legumes in 2019
hyper-perfect, posed, artful photos captioned with quirky emoji to messy, seemingly unedited, candid photos, preferably ones where the caption discusses your recent battle with crippling anxiety. The rise of Instagram stories, where you don’t even need a caption about feelings to justify an ugly photo, has turned mundane camera-phone videos and snaps into badges of accomplishment, first for you, then for the recipe writer you tagged.
Avocado toast became a cliche, a performance, a fetish, a false symbol of excess standing in for missing capital —. For now, beans seem to be in a similar cultural place that avocados were in 2009: enjoyed by a small, committed community, maybe a little decontextualized and misunderstood, but not yet leveraged for online influence or irrevocably stripped from their cultural roots.
Beans are not just an affordable food, but a food associated with poverty, and they’ve long been stigmatized as such. The bean recipe popularized by Adler and Nosrat and others is based on a Tuscan recipe; Tuscans were derided as, or bean eaters, because they were too poor to afford meat. Bean is also at the root of an anti-Mexican slur here in the U.S. Generally, in mainstream American culture, beans have been devalued as somehow “ethnic” or reduced to fart jokes.
But I also don’t think beans need to be simple, that no fine dining restaurant should dare to foam a chickpea. Rao says she does not understand why a perfectly cooked bean, at home or in a restaurant, moves her, but it does. “My grandmother offers pucks of roasted besan, a kind of chickpea flour, held together with ghee and sugar, on a little altar to her gods,” Rao says.
Maybe beans fascinate because of their dual nature; they’re both beautiful and plain, hard and tender, simple and luxurious, and untangling one from the other is impossible, maybe even wrong. Letting beans simmer on a stove for an hour or two is the opposite of productivity, and yet it yields riches. They’re a little magic spell we can still perform, coaxing lushness out of a hard nubbin of a seed with water, a little fat, and time.
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