'Growing up as a Black child, pumpkin never really had much sway in my family’s home, and as an adult, it still doesn’t' — food writer Ryan Shepard on the sweet potato's starring roll in her life
, pumpkin has taken over as the ingredient that people reach for to bring a bit of autumn festivity into their lives. But growing up as a Black child, pumpkin never really had much sway in my family’s home, and as an adult, it still doesn’t. During the holidays, there is absolutely no way you’ll ever see a pumpkin pie — or anything pumpkin — on our dining table. Instead, that treasured dessert designation is held by the unassuming sweet potato, which we bake into pies, cakes and even rolls.
This bread is my homage to the root vegetable that holds such a special place in my heart, both culturally and as a new mom. Sweet potato puree is the very first solid food I ever fed my baby girl, and this recipe is inspired by one of the meals I made in order to introduce her to new flavors. In an effort to keep her meals interesting, and her palate hopefully on the more adventurous side, I decided to simmer sweet potato chunks in creamy coconut milk along with a few crushed cardamom pods for flavor. She loved them, and after tasting them, I did too. It made me think about what an amazing bread these flavors would make, especially with the holidays approaching.
The loaf’s tender crumb has an unmistakably floral note thanks to the cardamom, while the coconut milk adds a touch of nuttiness. With a few pinches of cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice, it’s a treat that works just as well in the morning with a strong cup of coffee as it does as a dessert. It also holds up in the freezer if you want to prepare it in advance and drop a few loaves off to family and friends.
So while pumpkin may keep its strong hold on the fall, I’ll be enjoying this festive bread — and all things sweet potato — now and for the rest of the year.200 mL coconut milk
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