Famed today for its beaches, foods, and festivals, Gran Canaria is also home to ancient mysteries that a visitor can trace from the deepest caves to the brightest constellations.
To look into the night sky from a lonely peak on Gran Canaria is to see the same whirl of stars that was reflected in the eyes of the earliest islanders, some 2,000 years ago. Now commonly known on the island as ancient Canarians, and variously believed to have been colonists, prisoners, or exiles from the ancient Berber tribes of North Africa, these profoundly isolated people spun creation myths out of the overhanging cosmic fabric.
The electric glow of modern human activity is mostly confined to the busy northeast corner around the capital, Las Palmas. Prevailing trade winds blow in that way, forming a localized pattern of low cloud known as the “donkey’s belly”, and discharging humid air as “horizontal rain”. This tends to keep the sky clear over inland mountains and across the lesser-inhabited south, where Gauthier deploys mobile astronomy workshops in optimal locations with his company AstroGC.
The evidence is etched into the soft volcanic debris of the Sacred Mountains, where arcane markers and monoliths left behind by aboriginal stargazers stand not so far from the high-tech 21st-century telescopes of the Roque Saucillo Astronomic Center, and the Temisas Observatory.
Archaeologists from Tibicena, an archaeology company named after those lurking demon dogs of the ancient Canarians, have unearthed whole troves of artefacts from hidden chambers in the landscape, many of which are now on display at the Museo Canario in Las Palmas. Tools, art, idols, even mummified bodies – intriguing clues that don’t quite solve the abiding mysteries of existence on this island before the Spanish arrived. Even the archipelago’s name remains enigmatic.
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