View the full Zanini fall 2020 ready-to-wear collection.
Launching an independent label in a market dominated by multibillion-dollar brands requires a leap of faith. Marco Zanini jumped a year ago. Though the challenges are constant, he now finds himself with a roster of top boutiques around the world and the kind of personal satisfaction that comes from doing precisely what he wants after many years of working for other companies.
This season his interest turned to traditional English wool flannels, which he cut into mannish two- and three-piece suits that he lined in white linen. The lining was a counterintuitive gesture, extravagant and humble in charming combination. Another wool jacket and matching full skirt were lightly quilted; the padding gave the pieces an anachronistic mien, like relics from a time when such things were made by hand at home.
Zanini is uninterested in flash and the surface details that preoccupy lesser designers. He cares about a garment’s profile, be it the exuberant pouf sleeves of a silk faille going-out top, or the sweep of a long, structureless dress in cotton viscose with a golden sheen he said he designed for entertaining at home. Amid the bombast of the Fashion Week crowd, these clothes were a sweet reprieve: subtly special and designed for women with taste as rebelliously discerning as Zanini’s.
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