Ximon Lee Men’s Spring 2020 was a more wearable collection with rich textile and modest tailoring.
Ximon Lee’s latest collection represents a newfound tranquility as the now Berlin-based, Chinese-Korean designer explored a lighter topic of restoration and poetic symbolism.
The set, designed by avoir.ig, which is located in Garage Amelot as a part of the CIFF Paris trade show, was filled with flowers in the semi-transparent cage. It also featured surveillance cameras pointing in different directions and footage was projected on big screens. It was an interesting play of seeing and being seen, adding a layer of political commentary to his Chinese roots.
The lineup was a continuation of his fall 2019 collection showcased in Shanghai, the same long coat is made with a lighter fabric, and his signature use of jacquard got a black-and-white update with images of war, male nudity and ripped jeans. The occasional use of the color red seemed to be a reminder of violence and brutality underneath the naivety of his idealistic pursuit of a peaceful world.
This is one of Ximon Lee’s more wearable collections, as the designer has a track record of doing one smaller collection after a major one. But even as he moves in the right direction commercially, Lee needs to recalibrate his rhythm and begin to treat the brand like a proper business.
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