Why the return of Poncho's Tlayudas is important for L.A., plus an iftar buffet in Anaheim's Little Arabia and news of the week.
was at Smorgasburg L.A., on a Sunday soon after I began working for The Times in late 2018. What I recall most vividly from that morning was the moronga — the blood sausage that Alfonso “Poncho” Martinez makes based on a recipe taught to him as a wedding present by the father of his wife and business partner, Odilia Romero.
Martinez wants the tlayudas he serves to taste like the ones he grew up eating in Oaxaca’s Central Valleys, but it’s also important to him and Romero that they help sustain what they refer to as the “local corn economy” there.Romero was working the grill on that day of my first visit, and she folded the tlayuda in half on the grate over mesquite embers after it was pliable but also crisp.
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