The gradual return to business for New York's restaurants offers a glimmer of optimism for operators and potential diners alike
Many New York restaurants that were temporarily closed are now serving takeout and delivery. Photo: Noam Galai/Getty Images When the coronavirus shutdown hit New York, Jose Luiz Ortiz, the co-owner of Mama Catalina in Corona, was one of many restaurateurs who opted to turn off the burners completely out of concern for the well-being of his family, staff, and customers.
Owners who spoke with Grub cited the accumulation of rent and loss of income or that they had felt more comfortable about being able to operate safely. Others say it took time to figure out how to translate their product, land on something they could do safely in their small space, or that their reopening was made possible because of PPP loans.
“Everyone is guessing. To me, that’s indicative of how antsy people are,” says chef Alex Stupak. “And I get it — I’m very antsy.” After reopening for takeout and delivery at the West Village’s Empellón Taqueria on Cinco de Mayo, he will start doing takeout this Friday at his East Village bar, Empellón Al Pastor. On June 5, he’ll start “something extremely limited” at Taqueria, too.
“It’s not the kind of thing where I can say we’ll be open one day this week, two days the next, three days in two weeks,” Headley says. “Just as we were talking about it during the morning, before we made it an actual thing, it was, ‘Let’s do this, let’s see what happens.’” The West Village’s JeJu Noodle Bar, whose owner, Douglas Kim, closed it because of staff fears about racist attacks on Asians and Asian-Americans, will return with a “totally different” menu. Instead of ramyun, there’s a five-course prix fixe with either bo ssam or a roasted chicken glazed with maple soy.
Especially for restaurants in working- and lower-middle-class neighborhoods, they may feel like they simply can’t keep the lights off any longer. Two months without selling so much as an order of plantains is a long time to go without any business in this industry. Jackson Heights’ Arepa Lady reopened last Friday after temporarily closing in late March due to a lack of customers. Nothing changed, and the owners say orders have so far been the same.
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