It’s worth taking the long road between Oaxaca and the beach
At 2 o’clock in the morning on December 7, 1993, just a month shy of his 12th birthday, Ivan Vásquez hopped on a recycled bike made from a refurbished frame and scraps and headed off to ride 118 miles along treacherous, high-altitude mountain roads from Oaxaca City to Iglesia de Santa Catarina Juquila.
The trip was undoubtedly hard — at one point Vásquez’s cousin found him stalled on the road, leg muscles burning and cramped — but it was also riddled with pit stops that served a vast array of fortifying Oaxacan delicacies. Vásquez remembers stopping roadside for memelas brushed with salty lard and topped with black bean puree and cheese, smoky pit-roasted barbacoa, hearty soups infused with wild herbs, and of course mezcal.
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