At the newly opened Bar Restaurant on Sunset, a vegetarian French onion soup enters the ring to contend for best F.O.S.
, the functionally named ... uh, bar and restaurant on Sunset Boulevard in Silver Lake, a meat-free version contends for best in the city.
Unlike the bubbling, umber-brown baked crock at Dear John’s and the scorched porcelain tureen from Petit Trois , the $20 soup at Bar Restaurant comes in a large, plain bowl and is swimming with — sorry to all you veal-loving purists out there — hen-of-the-woods and yellow oyster mushrooms. The umami-rich mushroom- and onion-based broth is transfused with kombu, and the toothsome hen-of-the-woods play well off the velvety onions, their earthiness anchoring the sweet nuttiness of the Gruyère.It’s worth ordering, if only because you, like me, can’t resist ordering F.O.S. whenever you see it on the menu. And you’re curious if a vegetarian version can hold its own against tradition.
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