In Santa Clara’s suburban Koreatown, restaurants navigate the push-and-pull of mass appeal and embracing tradition (Via EaterSF)
El Camino Real is a quintessential California road, spanning more than 600 miles. In the Bay Area, the street is notorious for running the length of the Peninsula and can take travelers from the Mission in San Francisco all the way to San Jose in one straight shot.
This expansiveness was likely born out of the competitiveness that has long existed here. As the number of Koreatown restaurants has grown steadily over the past decades, restaurateurs have remained hesitant to stick to specialty items, instead presenting an expansive selection of dishes so customers won’t need to search elsewhere for what they want.
In recent years, restaurateurs like Shin have taken active steps to find new customers and introduce them to Korean cuisine, with the broader aim of keeping this Koreatown around for the long run. Though Shin and his father initially opened Restaurant Silla to serve traditional Korean stews based on longtime family recipes, Shin specifically wanted to make Korean food more approachable to those who have not yet had a chance to explore it.
Chungdam’s focus on keeping up with the times successfully translated into DIY cook-at-home meat platters and Korean lunch boxes called doshiraks to stay afloat during the past year. But not all of Santa Clara’s Korean barbecue restaurants were able to sustain themselves; many faced immense losses. Some closed, unable to switch to a dining model that didn’t rely on the in-person, smoky grilling of marbled meat on hissing stone surfaces.
Hwang is one of the lucky ones — he is a celebrity of sorts to those who are familiar with the Koreatown food scene. Even after opening multiple SGD Tofu House branches in the Bay Area, Hwang still works at the original location in Santa Clara every day, bringing food to customers, along with crayons, papers, candies, hugs, and free kids’ orders.
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