A review of the restaurant that has a 'water menu.'
A third-generation Italian with many relatives abroad, I've visited Italy my whole life, flying in and out of Rome Fiumicino more times than a diplomat.
Before my journey to the top of the Rome Cavalieri for dinner, I lingered in the lobby, one of the city's best-kept secrets for line-free art. The Tiepolo Lounge is essentially a gallery of fine Venetian masterpieces, with millions of dollars worth of pieces from artists including Francesco del Cairo, Jan van Orley, and, most notably, Giovanni Battista Tiepolo.
The 12-page water menu — yes, water menu — delighted even the most hardened skeptic as I read through the various categories, organized by "listed according to the total dissolved solids"; "sources in Italy"; "foreign sources"; "truly special"; and "last but not least the most luxurious bottles," all with vivid descriptions of effervescence and minerality levels.
And then there's the food. The menu honors Italian regionality while offering a global point of view, down to each grain of salt. During bread service, a server offered a tray of colorful salts from around the world — when I dined, there were six, including Alaea salt from Hawaii and a smoky, yellowish one from Norway.
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