'In these rapidly changing times, it’s difficult to know whether a rave review, aside from being ridiculously beside the point, will end up doing more harm than good.' plattypants writes
“Did you just cough?” Photo: Heritage Art/Heritage Images via Getty Images We’d all washed our hands perhaps too many times, my guests and I, before sitting down to dinner the other night at one of the handful of breathlessly trendy new restaurants which, in the best of times, open all over this great dining city on any given evening. I’d visited the downtown dining room before on my regular gastronomic rounds, and had expected it to be much emptier this time.
These are delicate times for those of us in the restaurant and food-writing trade, especially those of us who are a certain age, and who have subsisted on the unhealthiest of diets for far too long.
Not that I’m calling for the shuttering of all the restaurants and bars around this great eating and drinking town. Broadway shows and concerts attract much larger crowds than restaurants do, and the clientele tends to skew towards the older, more vulnerable members of the population. But like restaurateurs, we critics are in the service business, and our duty is to the reading public first, not the restaurants.
And as we ate our meal, and I tapped out a note or two into my no-doubt-germ-infected phone, a sense of comfort and intimacy spread out around our table, as I’m sure it did throughout the crowded, noisy dining room, and other crowded, noisy dining rooms all around town. Enjoying a good meal in a good restaurant did what good meals always do, especially in great dining cities like this one, or Tokyo, or Beijing, or Bologna.
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