The war is over. The U.S. is gone. A bone-rattling drive along the Ring Road finds hardship and few traces of nation-building
. In Dazwari, a highland village near the Turkmenistan border, residents have relied on USAID and UN food deliveries since drought cut wheat output by more than half and decimated sheep. One in three children is malnourished here, community leader Arbab Nader says. “The [Taliban] government does nothing for us.”
We stop at a filthy teahouse and eat tough kebabs in silence. A shopkeeper lets us crash on his floor, but we hardly rest. The route to Maimanah is off-road, and we must follow a predawn taxi to avoid getting lost. Soon we’re slashing through hill clefts and edging along steep ravines, one rockslide away from tumbling into the abyss. There’s no choice but to keep chasing the taxi’s taillights through dirt clouds and white-knuckle our way through a gantlet of climbs and drops.
An energetic Taliban information officer named Hilal Balkhi informs us that we drove past a recently discovered mass grave. Scattered bones had been spotted along the highway, and a man came forward claiming to have seen Dostum’s fighters bulldozing bodies in 2001. Desert winds had licked the concealing sands away.
I notice a leather paddle on his desk and ask if he’s ever used it. “Only once,” he smirks, recalling a man who ignored warnings to stop cursing in his office., from its cultivation to its sale and use. With government assets frozen and scant diplomatic recognition, the Taliban seem to be trying to gain favor with the international community.
More than 300 feet down the mineshaft, shirtless men haul sacks of coal through sweltering corridors, the wooden support beams buckling overhead. A lack of timber supports and inexperienced workers were blamed when a February collapse at a nearby mine killed 10 trapped miners. The mouth of the tunnel is belching smoke as we enter. Visibility drops to zero, and I cringe, hoping we don’t blow a tire. What seems like an eternity later, we emerge from the black lung and pull over to suck down fresh air before a winding descent to Kabul.that the Soviet Army and first Taliban government never managed to tame. Panjshir again held out when every other province fell in rapid succession in summer 2021, but Taliban fighters finally punctured its myth of impenetrability.
But the Taliban’s transition from guerrilla movement to government is taxing the patience of weary Afghans. New decrees are further curtailing personal and mediafreedom, and the nation is cut off from trade and aid, plunging the economy into freefall. Food, jobs, and health care are scarce. Infrastructure is a shambles. And even with the war over, it’s not peaceful.
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