For Vogue’s September 2021 issue, John Galliano and tomotakakoizumi were tasked with reworking a piece by the other—starting by unraveling nearly every stitch. Watch the mesmerizing process
to Tokyo. In the video above, we see their first impressions of the assignments—Koizumi delights in Galliano’s toile being finished like a “real” dress, not a prototypes—and get a glimpse of their processes as they set to work. “Taking things apart is the greatest teacher that one could have,” Galliano explains in the video, adding that the challenge reminded him of his scrappy fashion student days. “[It] is quite a joy to psychologically take myself back to that era, and take it ever further.
Watching the finished garments come to life is nothing short of mesmerizing. Galliano and his team took apart every ruffle of Koizumi’s gown, repurposed the strips as “yarn,” and knit them into an unrecognizable, massively-oversized sweater of ivory and sky blue degradé. The knitting alone took 11 days. Koizumi cut Galliano’s stiff, quilted toile into panels and inserted swaths of ivory frills to give it more volume, calling it “reconstructive design—[Martin] Margiela’s signature.
“The best reaction I want to see is surprise,” Koizumi says. “I want to arouse positive emotions.” It isn’t just the exuberant colors and artful details that feel positive, but the unlikely collaboration itself, too. Watch the entire project play out—from slashed and torn dresses to one-of-a-kind couture looks—in the video above.
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