After Russia’s initial assault on Kyiv was repelled in the invasion's opening month, the capital found itself in the somewhat uncomfortable position of becoming largely a bystander in the war that continues to rage in the east and south.
“If they call me, I need to go to the recruiting center. I'll have 12 hours,” said the chief editor of The Village online magazine, which covers life, news and events in Kyiv and other unoccupied cities.
Many, but by no means all, of the 2 million inhabitants who Kyiv Mayor Vitali Klitschko said had fled when Russian forces tried to encircle the city in March are now returning. But with soldiers falling by the hundreds to the east and south, the surreal calm of Kyiv is laced with nagging guilt. Now greatly reduced in numbers and vigilance, they generally wave through the restored buzz of car traffic, barely glancing up from pass-the-time scrolling on phones.
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