At Valentino’s Spring/Summer 2024 menswear show in Milan, Pierpaolo Piccioli drew inspiration from Hanya Yanagihara’s “great gay novel” novel A Little Life
How? He said it with flowers. Flowers became a symbol of strength and delicacy, as well as life and its transience, and were used as substitutes for restrictive neckties . As embroideries, corsages or appliqués, they also festooned all manner of garments, from formal tailoring – perhaps expected chez Valentino – to the ‘bleu de travail’, the jackets often worn by French manual workers in a particular shade of virulent cobalt, as well as overcoats and wide-cut overshirts.
And the shape of tailoring was eased, jackets cut to slope off the figure, trousers sliced into skirts or shorts, or fused with shirts to form overalls.
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