Under an ocean of rubbish, Marni’s Francesco Risso challenges fashion to act on the climate crisis.
“I get itchy from the words ‘political’ and ‘sustainable’ because nobody can really be sustainable one hundred percent and politics can be misinterpreted,” Francesco Risso explained post-show after the latest Marni presentation. “That said, each little step makes a positive change and today, there’s no escaping politics or sustainable.”, Marni’s spring/summer 20 men’s show was Francesco’s first step toward creating a more positive future.
Under a fishnet filled with plastic and industrial waste, Francesco Risso engaged with the industry’s conversation around ethics and sustainability. He directly confronted the fashion set with the crisis that casts a bleak shadow over our future, by hanging rubbish over their heads. “The set is the result of months of recuperating plastic, from industrial waste to the ocean and beyond,” he told us.
The collection was a study in clashes — Francesco namechecked Truman Capote and Che Guevara as influences. He gathered artefacts from opposing worlds and jumbled everything together in the tumble dryer that is his mind. “It’s a marriage between inventive rebels and 50s control freaks, all looking for the Noah’s Ark in a completely corrupted nature,” he explained. Field jackets and familiar military and camo garb were given tropical slants.
Since he replaced Consuelo Castiglioni at the helm of the off-kilter luxury label that she built, Francesco has personified the fresh energy and sense of excitement that has revived Milan in recent seasons. His Marni is youthful, unexpected, thought provoking and fun. Here, he added a more conscious tone and sense of urgent action. It’s a sentiment that echoes that of the next generation of activists urging change across the world.
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