Twilight of the 24-Hour Diner

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Twilight of the 24-Hour Diner
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The pandemic, labor shortages, and unpredictable patronage pose challenges for America’s beloved all-night diners. (via EaterAustin)

“You can always count on a diner. You know what you’re going to get, you know it’s there and it’s reliable.”

And staffing is just the beginning of the problem. “Building a late-night business from virtually scratch isn’t easy,” Ayer says. Kerbey’s Guadalupe location24-hour services on Fridays and Saturdays in October 2021, but that halted because “the foot traffic that used to exist for late-night hours disappeared ... there weren’t as many college students on campus.” South Lamar is open for 24-hour service on Fridays and Saturdays as of March 2023. Other locations are now open until midnight.

Before the pandemic, 24 Diner didn’t offer preordered takeout food because of the fast-paced demands of the restaurant. Pivoting to takeout services during the early pandemic was challenging. Curren first had to get packaging and figure out what dishes actually traveled well. “It was a huge learning curve for us,” says Curren. The team offered larger family-style meal packages like meatloaf dinners, and then added wine bottle sales when that was legalized.

In the current dining climate, takeout remains at the forefront of American restaurant culture. “We’re seeing almost 30 percent of our sales at the diner in to-go food,” he says, of 24 Diner’s current business. “Something that we never even did in the past now represents almost a quarter of our revenue.”

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