'We arrived in Port of Spain and stepped directly into history.'
Chef Kwame Onwuachi and his grandfather hit the road in Trinidad, the land of doubles, geera pork, and fried sharkApril 17, 2020The rub of time is that when you meet your ancestors, they’re already old. I know my grandfather not as a young man, clean-cut with a skinny tie, but as Papa Winston, a cloud of a white beard ringing his chin and laugh lines like rivers creasing his eyes.
We arrived in Port of Spain and stepped directly into history. Trinidad and its twin island state, Tobago, have been deeply imprinted by centuries of colonialism and bloodshed from British, French, and Spanish occupation; the importation of Indian labor and African slaves; and the exploitation of indigenous Carib and Taino cultures. The less-terrible legacy of all of this is that the culture has been blitzed into an astonishing and vibrant mix.
Traditional Trinidadian doubles are served open-faced and quickly wrapped in wax paper, letting the bara steam, and keeping the spicy filling piping hot. Try leftover tamarind sauce in margaritas, drizzled over fresh mangoes, or with roast pork.Then back into the car we went to head north toward Maracas Bay along a winding road, the green cliffs on one side and the ocean stretching blue on the other. We stopped for lunch at Richard’s Bake & Shark, a Trinidadian institution.
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