Traveling From England to New York . . . Via Ocean Liner

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Traveling From England to New York . . . Via Ocean Liner
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Would you travel from England to New York on this ocean liner?

pushes off from Southampton into the English Channel, a band plays “New York, New York” and passengers gingerly dance on the deck, careful not to splash Champagne down their coats. Beyond the starboard rail, the pale cliffs of the Isle of Wight are sliding past at 17 knots. The atmosphere is festive, and our crowd has made a collective decision to wave at everyone in the channel. A couple of sailboats near Hythe seem startled by the spectacle.

My husband, Andrew, and I have already had too much Champagne, gulped with a couple of club sandwiches during lunch in our cabin, and we linger on an upper deck near the shuffleboards. An elegant couple from Hampshire introduces themselves. Looking at the craggy Dorset coastline, I say something about the fun of cruises, and our acquaintances wince.. This is a transatlantic crossing, a direct passage from England to New York.

The menus are old-world celebratory and seem intended to assure passengers that they are getting their money’s worth. Meat is plentiful and of good quality , but vegetables are comparatively sparse. The best meal of our trip is masterminded by our cabin attendant, who used to work in the restaurant and tips us off about the kitchen’s terrific curry. The following evening a tray of sautéed spinach, saffron rice, and spicy chicken with cashews is delivered to our room.

The hurricane is going to miss us by a wide margin, the captain declares, so we get on with our day, which includes reading in deck chairs with wool blankets pulled up to our chins and listening to a string trio after dinner. Following the concert, there is ballroom dancing in the bowels of the ship, and we enjoy a few rusty waltzes before bed. This is the great strength of the: Passengers can experience the crossing that they want.

By the time the ship reaches Brooklyn Harbor, we have established our at-sea routine—breakfast on the cabin balcony, walks around Deck 7, rum and ginger ales in a bar that looks out over the bow—and shut our suitcases with regret. It’s just after 5 o’clock in the morning as we approach the Statue of Liberty, which casts a bright light over the bay. Many passengers are outside to witness the arrival, their breaths opaque in the cold, clutching cameras and coffees in the near-dark.

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