Martin Margiela was born OnThisDay in 1957 ❤️
refused to articulate his thoughts behind the clothing he made – save for a rare interview via fax machine, or fragmented explanations passed through the Maison’s “spokesperson” – the collections he presented as part of his namesake label were a fierce vocabulary all of their own.
Such is the extent of Margiela’s influence that his hallmarks, once strange, and foreign – the roomy proportions, the frayed edges, the hybridisation of garments – now seem less so, absorbed, as they have been, by the designers that have come in his wake. His work continues to resound, as fashion once again looks back to the 1990s – just a few months ago, during Paris’ men’s shows, at Vetements, designer Demna Gvasalia revelled in the designer’s DIY spirit.
at Paris’ Palais Galliera, the first career-spanning exhibition of his work in the city, and created with the help of the elusive designer himself. “He is one of the rare contemporary creators to fully question the fashion system, from its conception – using all that fashion has always hidden: linings, manufacturing processes – to its presentation, through its uses.”
Margiela, who notoriously left his namesake label in 2009, and in the years since has shied away from a subsequent design role in fashion, serves as artistic director for the retrospective. Not that he would describe it as such – in Margiela’s own words : “this exhibition is more than a retrospective. It’s a restitution of the 1989 to 2009 era based on a memory which seems has disappeared a bit.”
It comes at a decisive, and pertinent, moment in fashion. Margiela’s desire for anonymity was a rejection of the media’s influence over fashion, an influence that has since increased tenfold. In his reserve, he was daring – and now, appears more so, for the continuing refusal to lay his life bare, as other designers are increasingly pressed to do. “His ideas, driven by spontaneity, are now symbols of independence toward the now pressured system,” says Samson.
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