The oft-critiqued movement is all the rage amongst avant-garde designers—yet 2023’s version is warmer, less political, and more like “cute-alism.”
within the brand’s new store in SoHo. Models weaved in and out of Richard Serra–esque industrial metal sculptures, their furry heels traipsing across glazed-concrete floors. Editors admired the sculptural shape of a shearling coat, its meticulous cut emphasized by the monochromatic gray surroundings. Except for a porous concrete table and sleek black clothing racks, the space was devoid of decoration. Among the austereness, all you could focus on were Cate Holstein’s clothes.
To accomplish this deliberate plainness, Frazen used industrial materials that became “very rigid and monolithic.” He bent hot rolled steel into curved enclosures and covered the walls with plaster made from troweled cement combined with poured concrete. In the process, he made a point not to mask any imperfections. “We preserved a lot of the material’s visible marks of making, which suggest a history and a bit of mystery. The space is not too polished or sterile,” Frazen explains.
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