Yang's Kitchen serves some of the best breakfast and lunch options in Los Angeles. Critic Bill Addison says dinner might be even better.
Your support helps us deliver the news that matters most.Dishes such as mellow chicken liver over toast, peppery grilled prawns, crackling fried chicken wings and a wonderfully flaky-chunky smoked fish dip move into midday tastes. Bringing all the different directions together is an irresistible hubcap-size pancake textured with cornmeal and mochi; it’s thin and lacy around the edges, with a center like an unusually plush crepe. I want it no matter what else I’ve ordered..
The dinnertime cooking fulfills the restaurant’s early promise. It shows off a self-assurance that needs no labeling; just embrace the personal narrative set forth.Seaweed vinaigrette adds invigorating umami to a simple salad and nicely frames a meal’s flavors. Knotty, meaty pork ribs tingle with cumin and Sichuan peppercorns. They were originally an entree but have been wisely reassigned as a starter. A few each to share is ideal.
This is probably a good place to say: Yang and Ho have quietly put together one of the most compelling beverage programs in Los Angeles. Nonalcoholic drinks — smooth cold brew, several Taiwanese teas of various potencies, seasonal kombuchas and fun no-booze concoctions like an oolong “Fresca” with lemongrass and mint — have always been clutch. But now, hello, there’s a dynamic, individualistic wine list, fairly priced, that puts me in the mind ofwhen he took over wine for Anajak Thai.
Also, the restaurant serves a dozen sakes in all styles. Maybe my love of sake is a food writerly thing, but, by God, one day this beverage will break all the way through to the mainstream. It’s so much more than the basic, blank-tasting stuff to which I was exposed early in my imbibing life. Sake can have so many expressions: bright with melon, citrusy, floral, savory, pleasantly dank.
My only complaint from dinner at Yang’s? The cornmeal-mochi pancake isn’t on the dessert menu, and it should be.had the brilliant idea to ask ChatGPT where and what she should eat for a week in Los Angeles.
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