America’s family-owned pierogi restaurants are handed down from generation to generation. How long can they survive?
Both mother and daughter want to make Helena’s Specialty Foods bigger by expanding into a new space and new areas of business, like catering and online sales. But, growing a small business in this diffuse, rural part of New York presents challenges. Alena Samko believes technology — social media, e-commerce, a point-of-sale system for tracking inventory — could help overcome those challenges, but she considers herself old fashioned.
“A customer told me, ‘When I first took a bite, it brought tears to my eyes,’” Anna Samko says. When people use the term ‘comfort food,’ this is what they mean. “The way the world is now, everybody needs a little hug ... You could go to the city and get any kind of food, at any time of night or day, but it’s where you go that makes you feel at home and comfortable — that’s what brings people here.
Alena Samko has strong ideas for how to modernize operations at Helena’s Specialty Foods without meddling with the tradition and simplicity that keep customers crying tears of joy onto their plates, but if she decides to take a different path, her mother retires, and Helena’s Specialty Foods closes up shop, the only local connection my sister and I and all the grandchildren of babas like ours may have to our family food heritage will be the pierogies in the freezer aisle.
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