As Year in Eater continues, it’s time for the best London restaurant meals of 2023
Food has increasingly become the same for me. I’m pretty sure the single best soup-to-nuts meal I ate this year was an orgy of porcini and ragù at Cammillo in Florence, but that is so obviously an affected choice — like Frank O’Hara namedropping The Polish Rider in— and so obviously not the point of this exercise that I really want to find something London-centric.
Two more coherent experiences just about fit the bill: a workday lunch, à deux, with my wife at Cafe Cecilia while our son was at school — the steak frites AND the deep-fried bread and butter pudding AND no Bluey in the background, pinch me — and a proper knees-up at The Plimsoll, while the young people around us looked beautiful and careless and went to the loos in excitable pairs and came back even more excitable and made me realise that the food is secondary to the incredible room...
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