Once a Southern California culinary touchstone, XLNT tamales offer a time warp to an era when Latino food wasn’t as ubiquitous as it is today.
Every week, Vincent Passanisi gets hundreds of emails from across the country about his XLNT beef tamales.
Emmanuel Betancourt loads a hopper for XLNT tamales in the Marisa Foods production facility in Long Beach. XLNT Tamales, a legacy product, is the oldest Mexican food company in the United States and celebrating its 125th anniversary.They’re found only in the frozen food sections of unhip supermarkets such as Stater Bros. and Ralphs, stocked not in the ethnic food section but alongside legacy brands such as Farmer John and Hillshire Farm.
XLNT opened a factory in Boyle Heights to meet demand; a worker, Charles Crawford, eventually assumed ownership. By 1908, the son of Canadian and Dutch immigrants was placing ads in newspapers that proclaimed his chicken and beef tamales the “Best on Earth.” “It’s like a meat pillow,” said Sarah Whittenberg, a culinary instructor for the North Orange County Community College District who grew up with XLNT during the 1980s in Irvine and grabs a bag at least once a month. “They’re not Mexican-style tamales, or Honduran style. They’re Southern California style.”
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