For our new interview series with fashion’s most formative voices, Rick Owens spoke to us about aging, pleasure, and the radical power of ’70s shock rock
Photo: Danielle Levitt The world according to Rick Owens — punk brat of Porterville, California, turned health-goth of Paris — is at once brutal and beautiful. His clothes and his stores have always insisted on it; it’s the world that has caught up. Now, at 57, the designer has a strong claim to be one of fashion’s éminences grises, bottle-black locks notwithstanding.
Many of your colleagues are reconsidering if runway shows are the best way to show fashion at the moment. Are you committed to them? I think it’s just a primal thing. People are always going to want ceremonies; they’re always going to gather together to experience something moving as a community. It’s Druid ceremonies, it’s church, it’s voguing balls. And there needs to be a sense of risk, that sense of competition, and that’s what runway shows can be. It’s seeing somebody take a risk and make a leap. We will forever be looking for that thrill. Especially now, with Instagram, runway shows are more relevant than ever.
When I started that book, I knew it was going to be an autobiography explaining how my aesthetic developed — through him, in a way. When I was 13 and Kiss exploded, it was kind of unprecedented. There had been the New York Dolls and glitter rock, but this one was so bombastic and with such full-on testosterone, with the vomiting of blood and the pyrotechnics and fog and the vitality of these men in these heels and black. And then it was very much more black leather.
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