The top 12 collections of fall 2020.
Fall 2020 was season bookended by runway shows that doubled as performance art. I’m thinking of Marc Jacobs’s Park Avenue Armory sensation with Karole Armitage’s athletic dancers in New York, and the tableau vivant of 200 historically garbed chorus singers presiding over Nicolas Ghesquière’s forward-leaning Louis Vuitton collection on the closing day of Paris.
It’s a lot to ask of a designer: to not only make clothes that say something about our time—Ghesquière called fashion a “perfect mirror” for the current cultural moment—but also to connect with us on an emotional level. But in this era of excess, with Mother Nature signaling in any number of ways that she’s reached her tipping point, maybe it’s necessary.
Banality is anathema to every single designer on this list, and this season they fought it in a number of engaging ways. Gucci’s Alessandro Michele staged his own happening in Milan; his elaborate fashion carousel was a tribute to the act of creation—and to the many hands required to get the task done. Tom Ford, meanwhile, hooked up with the Hollywood crowd on the eve of the Oscars. The man gives good front row.
Jonathan Anderson of JW Anderson and Balenciaga’s Demna Gvasalia continued to engage us with their boundary-pushing silhouettes, while our premier women designers—Miuccia Prada, Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen, Rodarte’s Mulleavy sisters, and Silvia Venturini Fendi—got down to the business of redefining the notion of femininity for the 2020s. Burton and Fendi in particular made the important point that women of all ages and shapes are sexy.
The youngest designers here—Richard Malone in London and Marine Serre in Paris—are incorporating responsible design into their practices, either by disclosing the rates they pay the workers they employ or by upcycling significant portions of the materials used in their collections. These are essential, feel-good lessons for the more established names on our list—and for fashion at large as we enter a new decade that promises to present all of us with fresh challenges.
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