The Yurok Tribe’s annual salmon festival in Klamath, California, is a little different this year. Yes, there’s a noisy parade, yes there are dozens of stalls selling T-shirts and jewelry, yes there are kids wrestling it out in a traditional stick game and yes there is plenty of food.
But for only the second time in the 59-year history of the celebration, salmon is not being served. “The smell of salmon should be in the air,” said Gerogianna Gensaw, a Yurok member whose husband is a salmon fisherman, and who feeds her kids salmon nearly every day in life. “It feels like having a party, but your favorite person isn’t there.” Salmon are central to the Yurok, whose territory stretches 40 miles or so up the Klamath River from this beautiful, rugged coast.
After a huge fish kill twenty years ago, when toxins killed tens of thousands of salmon, the Yurok mobilized to fight against the dams. And they’ve won. One dam was just destroyed, after federal regulators approved the plan. Three more will follow next year. One bustling troupe in the festival parade reenacted the destruction with what looked like a bedsheet painted to look like a dam, a cartoonish block of TNT and plenty of cardboard salmon. But the Yurok did not stop there.
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