Kerby Jean-Raymond was one of the most celebrated young names in fashion. Then what happened? Tahirah Hairston reports on the Pyer Moss designer's squandered goodwill
Photo: Fernanda Calfat/Getty Imagesthe brand’s 2018 Black leisure collection was never produced for sale. But some of the looks appeared on red carpets, worn by celebrities such as Gabrielle Union-Wade and Laura Harrier, and in fashion editorials, like one on Refinery29 featuring Yara Shahidi. The 2019 collection was designed with the help of Christopher John Rogers, who went on to win the 2021 CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year Award for his own work.
“I’m a designer — I don’t need another designer around me,” Jean-Raymond said in a 2018 interview with the New YorkHe is, in fact, not a trained designer, which isn’t rare in the fashion industry. He also insisted on running both the creative and business sides — there was no Robert Duffy to his Marc Jacobs, no Giancarlo Giammetti to his Valentino.
In May 2021, Jean-Raymond let one of his executives and best friends, who had no background in design, take over a collection that a designer was working on. When the samples came back, nothing fit right Former designers say this happened repeatedly. Jean-Raymond denied this, saying that he was the only designer on the collection and that “we sometimes receive samples that don’t have the correct fit, but this is true across the industry and is just part of the process of making things.
“You’re looking at 25 different projects that need to be done in two months, and all we really got to start was looking at images — there weren’t, like, prototypes at first,” said Williams-Stern. “The pieces could have been a little better if we had more time.” The money Kering invested in Pyer Moss wasn’t always put to good use, according to company employees who watched it come in and go out. Some was used to pay old bills and overdue invoices. Much of it went to the development of multiple collections that never came to fruition. It was used to throw spur-of-the-moment parties and helped fund a documentary about the brand.
In December 2021, Jean-Raymond laid off most of his team; several employees said they were let go with no severance. They said Jean-Raymond told them the company was shutting down and had no more money, only to hire two more rounds of employees right after. He claimed he was going to Dubai to find investors and told the employees the company “would love to work with us in the future” and that they “would hear from them at the start of the year.” The former employees never heard back.
Jean-Raymond hired another team between March and April 2022, including designer Andre Walker, who didn’t stay for long. According to a former employee, Pyer Moss was having trouble paying factories for samples — Jean-Raymond denies this — and was trying to repair its relationship with Kering. “I didn’t feel comfortable moving things forward with a lot of factory vendors that I knew we couldn’t pay for.
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