Chef Kwame Onwuachi puts his own history on the menu at Lincoln Center's Tatiana
Photo: DeSean McClinton-HollandPhoto: DeSean McClinton-HollandPhoto: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Tatiana is named for Onwuachi’s older sister, and the chef wanted its menu to reflect the food he grew up eating, a blend of Nigerian, Trinidadian, Jamaican, and Creole cooking — cuisines rarely acknowledged at top-rated American restaurants where the focus is still stubbornly Eurocentric. “It’s the food of immigrants,” Onwuachi says of his menu. “That’s what I love about my background. I’m able to tell a lot of stories of the Black experience around the globe.
Part of that effort involves offering dishes that are popular in their respective communities but not exactly championed by the culinary Establishment. For example, Onwuachi turns to the Caribbean for one appetizer: the patties, long a staple in the Jamaican community , are filled here with curried goat, another favorite of the island nation.
There are tiers to African-food recognition: Ethiopian and North African cuisines with their Middle Eastern influences are somewhat more widely eaten and familiar in this country than West African food is. That region’s rich stews are heavy with spice combinations and local ingredients that can be unfamiliar to the western palate. Egusi soup, for example, a common Nigerian meal, is typically made from the seeds of bitter melon and has a creamy, nutty flavor.
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