A look into the history of the dish that goes back to the Middle Ages, when it was wildly popular—not for Shabbat, not for Passover, but for Lent.
Koerner, like Marks, concludes that Jews likely adopted this style of fish preparation centuries ago from their non-Jewish neighbors––although poached carp or pike served warm or cold and jellied in slices was more commonly the first course of Shabbat dinner. By the 17th century, Jews started preparing dumplings made from a mixture of chopped fish, matzo meal, and eggs instead of the more labor-intensive stuffed fish.
“It is not only a symbol of the arrival of the Messianic Age, but also of good fortune, prosperity, and fertility.” “These fish balls show up in early Jewish American cookbooks starting in the late nineteenth century but are not referred to as ‘filled fish’ until their inclusion in the 1901 pamphlet,,” explains Rubel. “In a few later editions, they are called ‘Lincoln House Fish Balls’ after the name of the Milwaukee settlement house, where they were a popular dish. The 1965 printing finally named this dish ‘gefilte fish.
None of this is to say that the 20th Century brought about the downfall of gefilte fish, in terms of quality and popularity. South of the US border, gefilte fish was evolving into a specialty reborn.Among Mexican-Jews, gefilte fish never elicited the same love-hate relationship as it does in the US. That’s because the dish, brought over by Ashkenazi Jews as well, evolved differently.
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