What do caviar bumps, MSG martinis, truffles, and beer spritzes have in common? They all speak to the specific kind of glam diners wanted in 2022
, the epitome of banquet chic, highlighting tableside Caesar salads and truffle corn. For those of us who spent the last two years buying increasingly skimpy outfits, promising that we’d hit the scene hard when the pandemic was “over,” upscale restaurants and the videos we film there are part of making up for that lost time. It’s no surprise, then, that this was the year that beer. A simple can of beer is simply not celebratory enough after everything we’ve been through.
This sloppy, obvious glam also comes with a hint of nihilism. After all, the rich have gotten richer, and are having no trouble flaunting it. “In 2021, the American economy grew at the fastest rate since the Reagan administration — a rising tide lifts all yachts, right?” wrote Rachel Dodeearlier this year in a piece that calls our current moment “the Mildewed Age,” the glitter a beautiful distraction from the hollowing out of society.
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