The country Trump tried to buy: Greenland markets its new ice museum, pristine fjords as it reinvents itself as a tourist destination

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The country Trump tried to buy: Greenland markets its new ice museum, pristine fjords as it reinvents itself as a tourist destination
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Greenland is reinventing itself as a sustainable, pristine Arctic destination with a sparkling new Icefjord Centre in the tourist capital of Ilulissat

NUUK, Greenland – Seated on the second floor of the chic Spanish restaurant Tapasimut, we were waiting to see what it could offer us in terms of tapas.

The country hopes to be the next Nordic tourism wonder: a collection of gorgeous vistas, gourmet restaurants and targeted travel packages toward a clientele that wants a quality experience without ruining what's already in place. He is referring to a time between 2011 and 2018 when the number of foreign visitors to Iceland shot up by 328 percent, thanks to cheap flights and savvy marketing spotlighting everything from the country's geysers to Game of Thrones filming locations. In 2018, the number of foreign tourists dwarfed Iceland's 350,000 residents by a factor of 6 to 1.

But Greenland's vast, isolated wilderness areas, the country's intriguing Danish/Inuit culture and a much colder, drier and sometimes sunnier climate than Iceland creates a sense of savage beauty not found in other Nordic countries. Both airports are slated to open in 2024, with a goal of attracting traffic – and hopefully major airlines -- from North America as well as Europe. Currently, one must fly via Reykjavik or Copenhagen only on certain days of the week, and fares are not cheap. .

Designed by Danish architect Dorte Mandrup, the Icefjord Centre, a museum dedicated to a history of ice and climate change, opened July 3 in Greenland. Visitors can walk up the roof for a better view of glaciers in a nearby bay."It's having the micro infrastructure – better signage and walkways – along the roads so people feel safe," he said."But considering we're 250 kilometers north of the Arctic Circle, it is amazing what you can find here.

Tourism officials are banking on tourists flocking to the Centre, a 16,000-square-foot boomerang-shaped building , that was underwritten by the Danish philanthropic association Realdania. Constructed of steel and more than 300 windows, the museum gets flooded with light from the east and west during all but the darkest winter months. One can easily pick up the pungent scent of the European oak floors and ceilings upon entry, where visitors are told to remove their shoes.

The glacier has doubled its velocity in recent years, retreating a historic 12 kilometers in 2002 alone. Another 10 kilometers have disappeared since then. "This is the epicenter of climate change and it's important that people know about it," Smårason said.

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