The best of London Fashion Week AW22: Loverboy, Harris Reed and Saul Nash:
’s AW22 collection was inspired by a story about swans — and like most stories or myths about them, it was dark and deeply disturbing. The Irish myth of ‘The Children of Lir’ is a fable told to many Irish children about four daughters and sons of an Irish king who are turned into swans by a jealous stepmother, and must live across three lakes over nine hundred years. Eventually, when they do come back to human form, they die.
One of the key takeaways from the London shows has been a sense of development among London’s so-called “emerging designers”. Not quite nascent talents, many of them have been questioning and examining their own work — and coming up with collections that broaden their horizons beyond their comfort zones.is one of them. By now, you will be familiar with strappy, sinuous dresses, which take their construction from the drapes and darting of traditional Indian sarees.
The contemporary parallels to be drawn between then and now are obvious, but every generation, to an extent, has its own fraught sexual and geo politics. So rather than trying to read too much into the analogy, maybe it’s better to just read it on its own terms as an exhibition of what Erdem does best: beauty and glamour. This season, it just happened to be anchored with a darkness, and was all the more vital for it.Photography Jason Lloyd Evans. Image courtesy of ERDEM.
The collection was shot against the backdrop of office life, with Martine’s men and women showing off their new wardrobes; flamboyantly ready for returning to real life but with a cosy and ruffled hangover from those enforced days at home. So, a suit is tailored from shell suit fabric, dressing gowns become formal suit jackets and scarves resemble old blankets you might coddle yourself in when hungover on the sofa. There’s also a strain of practicality too.
The highest highlight though was the corded denim, which found itself worked exuberantly all over on a jacket and then again as a motif reappearing on jeans. It somehow managed to feel both resplendently 18th century but also like the best pair of jeans you might find in a market stall, that kind of second hand item you can only ever dream of unearthing.
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