'A few weeks ago, I cried over a Negroni.'
. Actually, that's not entirely true; it's not like I was sitting there convulsing with body-shaking sobs of cocktail bliss. It was more like a general misting of the eyes, with maybe —— a tear or two that escaped the bounds of my eyelids and made the slow, cinematic trek down my cheeks.
So by the time I landed in Milan, I was essentially little more than a rumpled, jet-lagged husk filled with an emotional cappuccino of anticipation and relief and joy. Earlier that day, after checking into the Armani Hotel and being greeted with a tower of fruit and pastries and a bottle of Champagne in my room, I had a late solo lunch at La Gioia, a quick walk from the hotel. I may or may not have misted up when I took my first bite of tagliolini with culatello ragù — OK, I definitely did.
If we couldn't go to Italy in 2020 and much of 2021 — if we couldn't even go to our local Whole Foods without some modicum of fear — then we'd at least bring a simulacrum of la bella Italia to our tiny suburban Philly house. When the drinks arrived, they shimmered. Ribbons of silky spirit wiggled through the refracting lenses of the large ice cubes. We toasted, then took our first sips. The balance between sweet and savory was both bracing and comforting. It was energetic yet not overly so, kissed with a subtle fruit character that was instantly cauterized by a backbone of taut bitterness, of juniper- and herb-borne depth.
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