The Best Butter for the Job

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The Best Butter for the Job
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Here’s your butter breakdown.

But would it be better with fancy butter? Alice Medrich can answer that. The baking expert and author recalls a cookbook tour stop where the hostess had thoughtfully baked cookies from Medrich's book. They were supposed to be cutout cookies, perfect for decorating.

Cultured butter is made from cream that's been fermented with so-called good bacteria, and it’s churned longer and more slowly, according to the American Butter Institute. What’s labeled European-style butter is made similarly—though not all European-style butters are cultured. Medrich said European-style butters make the most sense "where you're going to be able to appreciate that wonderful flavor — on your toast, your bagels, on vegetables."In baking, it gets trickier. Because these fancier butters have a different fat-to-water ratio, they have the potential to throw off certain recipes. As Medrich knows firsthand, cookies might spread too thin or be greasy.

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